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Kevin Okun's avatar

Nice article, and pretty close on the surf physics! The waves do indeed peak up to conserve energy, since they slow down as they enters shallower water and convert that to potential energy, i.e. height. But the primary reason why waves break is because, at some point, the speed of the very top of the wave exceeds that of the water below it, and it pitches over and breaks. The water behind going faster than the water in front is something I haven't heard this process described as before, and it is a bit more accurate to say that water molecules in an unbroken wave are moving in a circular or elliptical path until the wave breaks. Nonetheless, I enjoyed the read and the metaphor!

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Mr D's avatar

We must have a bit of ESP going on! I was just looking at the Uranium chart, thinking, it must be close to a turn. Great timing, and thanks for the longer term charts. Cheers.

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